Rotorua: from a state of timeless perfection

You must see (and smell) Rotorua to believe it. The land is steaming with the earth’s exhaust escaping in bursts from deep beneath the surface. The exotic pungent smell takes one back to that prehistoric time of dinosaurs and fish-man crawling from the seas. It is a memory that is at once unfamiliar and yet as recognizable as time.

Here the Mitai family has recreated a Maori Village that is earthy, real, and raw. Each evening they provide an authentic introduction to Maori culture, including a Hangi (ground cooked-meal), an ancient warrior canoe, and traditional cultural performances.

Waimangu is the hydrothermal system can be traced to an exact date, June 10, 1886 when a violent eruption punctured the country with a series of craters and allowed geothermal fluid direct passage to the surface of earth. Take a hike to remember, but take advantage of the umbrellas for visitors at the park store. You’ll likely need it! If you want to soak up the unique ambiance of Rotorua head to the Polynesian Spa to lie immerged in earth heated mineral waters or perhaps you’ll want the ultimate relaxing aix massage given under jets of mineral rich waters.

Waiheke Island, NZ, A little glimpse of paradise

Waiheke Island, a short ferry ride from Devonport, is a bit of paradise in New Zealand. Until recently the island was populated by artists and those who wanted to get away from the big city of Auckland acroos the bay. When the ferry service started heaps of working folks from the city now choose to live there. The island has electricity, but all water is stored rainfall …definitely limited resources that will control future growth a bit.

We stayed in a cute, rustic bungalow in the rain forest…just steps from Palm Beach. One morning I worked with sculpture John Freeman an artist that in Oamaru stone carving. Here’s a shot of Black Beach, one of my favorite areas. You’ll also find wineries located throughout the island. Find out more here.

City of Sails and a Stingray

Auckland is purported to have the greatest number of pleasure boasts per capita than any city in the world. Since the 1840s regattas were held on the Waitmata Harbor and today it is no different. Standing atop Bastion Point we could see the city of Auckland across the harbor with the Sky tower jutting into the 21st century. This site is beautiful for kite flying, sunning, and relaxing, but its history speaks of turmoil and takeovers.

Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter and Underworld reminds us of how close New Zealand is to the South Pole and its important role in exploration. There are many exhibits focusing on the journey of Robert F Scott , a snow cat tour of live penguins complete with snow, and an underwater walkway where we observed all the fish that got away when we fish. However, what really caught our eye was a young woman feeding a stingray that was the size of a gianormous round tabletop. The stingray gracefully glided through the water and would almost stand upright, embracing her with its wings/arms/fins. Many in the audience watched with clenched hands or offered silent prayers either fearful or transfixed by the stingray’s graceful beauty.

Brick Bay and Bohemians

The Brick Bay Winery and Sculpture trail is reminiscent of the spirit of Frank Lloyd Wright's work. Settled in a gentle valley the glass building which includes a resturant and wine tasting area spans the small lake. Sheep graze on the hills in between vineyards and sculpture walks. Good wine, good food, good scenery, in an intimate setting. What more do you need?

The Church of St Peter and Paul built in 1881 heralds the tiny community of Puhoi, New Zealand’s earliest Bohemian settlement. This charming community has the essence of old world Europe. Its early settlers were from an area of what is now known as the Czech Republic just outside of Prague. They make an incredible cheeses here. It is just too convenient that they go so well with the wines from Matakana Coast!

Certain Ceramics and Clouds

Nothing sets your day right like a trip to Morris & James, Pottery, Tileworks & Café-Bar about an hour’s drive from Auckland near Warkworth, in the heart of Matakana Coast Wine Country. The relaxed ambience and sense of timeless beauty is found in the gallery. Famous in New Zealand each piece is hand decorated with abstract modern and New Zealand iconic images. Take a look online. They ship overseas too.

Remember getting there is often the best part of the journey. On the way we saw magnificent views on top a narrow ridge. The trees conformed to invisible winds and dense grasses gnarled and matted lay on the rich dark earth.I think they have been here since the beginning of time.

Orewa beach is a long strip of sand that makes for perfect swimming, surfing, and boating. Here the clouds touched and mimicked the north island's reach. I read that New Zealand is called the land of long clouds. These clouds must have been around the day they named it.

New Zeal-landers

Wow! What a time we had in New Zealand! It was with great zeal (all puns intended) that we discovered the land … the lakes.. islands …beaches … rainforests. The landscapes we saw evocated far oft memories of maybe a book, a photo, a fairy tale?

We spent the first part of our ten-day trip in the welcoming home of Zac’s family on their farm outside Auckland. Our first glimpse of New Zealand was from their porch settled above rolling hills, some gentle and some steep. Although it was winter, the hills lay covered with a verdant green, cattle and sheep grazed nearby. A large hawk drifted on the waves of wind overhead. Although we saw much on the trip to New Zealand this first look remains the strongest.

Cavill Avenue

There is always something happening at Cavill Avenue … planned or not. I have seen people playing jazz on the sax, flamenco on the guitar, and Korean magic tricks. It is as much fun to people watch as to shop and that much is free!

Burleigh Beach

Burliegh Beach is one of my favorite locations. The beach is beautiful, the town square is peaceful. A bowling green is in the center and I have stopped to watch them play, they are pretty intense in this afternoon's pursuit. There is also a drumming session on the beach on Sunday afternoon that mixes percussion with the crescendo the surf. The Old Burleigh Theater is right across from one of the best restaurants on the coast, Oskars. Spectacular views, wonderful service, and exquisite cuisine combined with friends or that special someone makes for an evening to remember.

Another Kind of Independence

QDeck, seventy–seven stories above the Gold Coast holds a unique freedom.

There were no fireworks on the Gold Coast to celebrate Independence Day, but a freedom from everyday perspective was celebrated as we viewed the coast from above.

A Pause for Reflection

Brisbane Botanical Gardens is located right off the CBD on the Brisbane River. Lots of people just hang out and enjoy the fine winter day.

In the center of the park is a large fountain that was constructed in 1867 to provide the “first pure water for the visitors to the botanical garden.” The steps are worn, straight lines into arcs, by years of large and small feet, white and brown, seeking refreshment from the towering fountain. Does it whisper of segregation? It is silent for now no waters flow.

Sea Calm How still How strangely still The water is today It is not good For water To be still that way. -Langston Hughes 1902-1967

Where were you when the king of pop died?

I never imagined it would be such a big deal. I mean people die all the time, right? And as one of my facebook friends from America wrote, “He died a long time ago.” That’s her point of view.

But here, in Australia, there is a different take on his passing. It happened during the news shows in the morning and they all ran MJ reels and remembrances. Before they got newsfeeds from America I saw a newscaster pull a photo of Michael and him taken years ago right out of his briefcase. It was folded and faded, as the camera zoomed in he struggled talking about the day he met Michael.

By noon, the Gold Coast Bulletin put out a special collectors issue. At the Oasis Center on Broadbeach Michael's songs were being piped in over the intercom and in most of the stores. People I talked to all wanted to talk about it. “It was my mom’s first concert, she is home crying.” “I think it is sad that he had to die for us to realize how great he was.” And on … and on…and on…

Even when I think back to some of the very first conversations that I had in Australia they were about Michael Jackson. One person challenged me, “What do you think of him? Was he a …?” I remarked at the time it was a pretty strange conversation. It ended up pretty emotional and it was only about MJ. So what gives?

Well, I would say that a lot gives.

I was on the Gold Coast Australia the day that Michael Jackson died. And here it is a very big deal.

Let 'er rip

This afternoon was the first break from our winter storms. The light on the coast shifts low in the wintertime here at Surfers Paradise. The shadows of the high-rise buildings snake to the ocean as the crashing waves catch glimpses of the fading light. The tide was fast and hard.

There is talk of a king tide tonight, one of the highest tides of the winter. I can hear the waves ripping the beach right now.

Priceless: Gold Coast, AU

The weather may be a touch cool, but the Gold Coast, AU still offers the hottest deals. And some of the best are free. You just have to be at the right place at the right time. Full moon sunset on the Gold Coast was breath-taking as sight–seers from France, local fisherman, and surfers were treated to a heavy golden moon that slowly rose into the darkened sky, casting its moon glow reflection in the ocean. People have observed the moon since time began and despite reports of swine flu, uncertain financial conditions, and threat of global warming it still is a big draw. The face of the moon, defined by ancient craters and lava flows, continues to remind us of that which is greater than any of us. It is priceless. It is timeless. It is free.

If you are on the Gold Coast, head for the beaches for a truly exceptional experience. No matter where you are located check when the next full moon is in your area at http://www.timeanddate.com/ then search for moon phases.

Whales Cruising up Gold Coast

Head to the coast and watch the whales. The humpback whales migrate from Antarctica up the coast of Australia each winter. More than 10,000 humpback whales pass the Gold Coast, Australia, between June and the end of October. There are reports these numbers are on the rise. Last week-end a pair of beautiful humpback whales gracefully displayed a romantic dance that any So You Think You Can Dance contestant would envy. The whale watching boat pulled along the whales and matched their leisurely pace of 4 knots. The pair sensed our presence and paused for a bit to play a bit of under-the-boat-hide-and-seek with us. In unison, each blew a huge fount of water, flicked their tails, and disappeared for several minutes while all on board held their breaths and rushed from side-to-side of the boat, hoping to be the first one to see when the whales reappeared. And reappear they always did! With dramatic fashion they would surface, coming closer to the boat for a look-see at their new playmate. These sleek and well-fed whales soon tired of this game. Their attraction for each other was too strong. Playful and persistence once again they resumed their graceful dance, water spout to water spout, tail flap to tail flap they swam north to warm waters. And as in any great dance, the female occasionally showed her resistance by rolling her graceful body to the side, her snow white belly just beneath the water. But only for a moment, before she turned and they danced together again. Nearly an hour later, the boat pulled away and we said our silent farewells. All of us, seasoned and newbie whale watchers, were somehow changed by witnessing the migration of the great humpback whales.

Click here the whale-watching tour

Click Here to find out more about the Humpback Whale

Here Today, Gone Tomorrow

. -

The gale force winds last week drove the beach-eating waves ashore. Its aftermath is marked by a significantly changed coast line. Here are before and after pictures taken in February and today. We used to walk by this lifeguard house on our way to the beach. Before it was a gradual drop with the beach spreading out gently before us. Now it is a 5-6 foot drop with no way up or down.

Finding Nemo

We went snorkeling in a protected cay of the Great Barrier Reef. Right in front of us was the wilderness Hook Island Resort. It looked like a great place to stay,

It was a cloudy day so the water was not incredibly clear, but what a world underneath the water. We saw every color of fish and purple coral undulating in the waves. Nicole spotted a sea turtle that was so busy feeding he didn’t mind being observed with a bunch of people wearing flippers.

I saw several small fish with human teeth. What shocker! The fellows on the boat didn’t know what I saw so I have done some internet sleuthing. I believe that it is called a Pacu. I found this link that is close to what I saw, only much, much smaller. I think in one of my next lives I want to be a marine biologist because I think the GBR is a little bit like heaven.

Fantasy Island

When we began our descent to Hamilton Island I couldn’t help but notice that the runway began and ended in the Ocean. Da plane, Da plane! Boss! Keep going through my mind and I was carried back to the 1970’s show, Fantasy Island. Hamilton Island was a whirlwind fantasy. Where we went snorkeling, on long hikes, deep sea fishing, and a took wonderful sailboat ride into the sunset. The island was by no means rustic, every amenity including a handy golf cart for getting around. Most of the tourists were from Australia and some of the services were a little burly towards Americans. Not that I blame them. They rely on the tourist industry to survive, but would really rather keep this haven to themselves.

Brisbane at Night

We had a great time in Brisbane. Wednesday night we went to a Fulbright dinner at Griffith University on the South Bank. Emmanuel said a few words about his project and how much we love Australia. Hopefully, the future will hold more collaboration! The next night we went out walking, me with my tripod and Emmanuel with his patience. We took the City Cat Ferry to South Bank for a late dinner. While walking through South Bank the reflections Brisbane City lights on the water were amazing.

New Horizons

Last week-end I completed another photo course at Bluedog photography at Mt. Tamborine. We had a bit of theory in the morning, mostly about using a grey card to set exposure and how to adjust white balance. In the afternoon, we trekked down the into the rain forest. I work on a couple of compositions, but most significantly, I was struck by how the rain forest almost forces one to look at the very small details; the ethereal waters against the solid rocks, the canopy that only allows a trickle of light pass and the fallen timbers that can fascinate for hours. This is a tremendous depart from the vistas of the Southwest USA, where one is drawn to the far horizons to capture the play of color and depth of perception.

ANZAC DAY IN BRISBANE

April 25 is ANZAC Day in Australia. It marks the anniversary of the first major military action fought by Australian and New Zealand forces during the First World War. ANZAC stands for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps although now it honors all who have served. We started the day at a 4:30 AM service in Brisbane. It was very touching. Afterwards, we went back to the hotel and watched the sunrise with Story Bridge reflected in the river down below. Later I went out to watch the Parade. I was amazed how long it lasted and how there were people representing seemingly every conflict since World War I. Later the day we walked along Queen Street and went to the Treasury Casino. I was fascinated with the building. At one time is was actually a treasury, with the vault room and offices turned now housing Pokies. I wonder … might the US treasury just as well turn into a casino too, since lately, the economy seems to be pretty much a crap shoot?

We ended the day at Bretts Warf for a super fantastic dinner. Alicia and Zac certainly showed us a great time in Brisbane starting with a rollicking Broncos Rugby game on Friday, Anzac day on Saturday, and carting some very tired folks back to the Gold Coast on Sunday. WHEW!

Pelicans Can Can

I met Danielle from Blue Dog Photography and Amy, a photography and Facebook pro for lunch at Charis Seafood in Labrador. Every day at 1:30 they feed the pelican bits of fish heads and other delightful tidbits. It is quite a sight. The watchers as much as the pelicans! The pelicans were quite polite. The man who fed them really seemed to know and like them. He spotted some more flying in and waited for them to arrive so he could feed them too. I think their eyes are awesome! The pelicans rise their heads in unison when he tosses fish to them … a choreographed ripple.

A doggone great Easter

On Easter Sunday, we took a quick trip to Port Stevens. We met the Easter Doggie who very politely posed for us. We saw a wonderful tranquil beach with families enjoying the weather and the Easter Holiday. Gaileen and Alicia had lots of catching up to do. They are both so much fun! It was nice to spend time in Newcastle and meet Alicia's delightful "Aussie" extended family. We also got a great tour of the University of Newcastle where Alicia finished her political science degree a few years ago.

Catholics and convicts … tasty!

Easter week-end we went to Newcastle. We met Alicia and Zac at the Brisbane Airport, but we had to take a bus and then a train to get there. The bus ride went just fine … no one was up at 8:00am on Good Friday. We made to the train station with just a few minutes to spare … since we are persons of a certain age… we made a quick pit stop. We then ran down the stairs and jumped aboard the train before it took off. We made it!

Emmanuel then asked the woman sitting next to us what train we were on. We found out we were going the wrong direction. We eventually made it on the right train.

My motto when traveling is, “you should spend at least 25% of your time lost … you’ll never know what you will find!”

In Hunter Valley we found wonderful wineries. Our favorite is a Shiraz called Convicts and Catholics. Zac and his Dad were fantastic tour guides and his sister Cass drove us. We were treated so well! We will never forget the beauty of Hunter Valley.

Do your thang in Byron Bay

This week-end we had a short drive to New South Wales and Byron Bay. Ever since we arrived in Australia people would say, “You really must go to Byron Bay. You’ll love it because there are a lot of hippies there.” Now, I am not sure if they think we might be (old) hippies or if they think hippies are an interesting, endangered species. No matter. Byron Bay is a wonderfully relaxed and beautiful area. Its quite on the other end of the spectrum from the chaos here on Surfers Paradise.

We had drinks at Beach Hotel.

We stood on the most eastern point of Australia. Hailed by the Cape Byron Lighthouse, this is the point that offers special significance for contemplating the Age of Aquarius and heralding in the New Year. Just to round things out a fantastic blues festival is held on Easter week-end.

School is in session

Well, someone has to do it! Teach school that is.

I enjoy watching surfing school. First, they do lots of swimming moves on their boards in the sand. Really. Then, they go out to the water. They are so impatient to get there. They try to get out to the waves, but most times they end up about two feet from the beach line. I hear them grumble. Exhausted and clumsy, ready to call it a day and move into the night life on Surfers.

Held captive by the rainforest!

What a wonderful week-end we had at the Blue Dog Photography retreat located on Tamborine Mountian. I could say we were transported from the urbane chaos of Surfers Paradise to the tranquilly of the rainforest, but I would be lying. Personally, as a former desert rat, I was on sensory overload! We watched sunrises and sunsets and as the night approached midnight saw glow worms on the cliffs alongside a ghostly waterfall. We walked both above the rainforest canopy and below. We saw light, ethereal waterfalls and the dark, oppressive strangler trees. The crescendo of birdcalls and cascading waterfalls provided us with discordant jazz. The rich smell of earth recycling, highlighted by the gum tree’s crisp aroma, offered us a tantalizing feast of scents. All this, plus trying to capture the essence through the camera’s eye while fast-paced clouds quickly changed form and light and fingers that became thumbs as I used new photographic techniques.

High Drama on the Seas

The black painted ship flying skull and cross bones drew attention in the Hobart Harbor. After a most delightful seafood lunch and bottle of Tasmanian wine, we decided to check it out. On a free tour of the ship named after Steve Irwin we were astonished at the inside glimpse of the “direct action” approach to end illegal whaling. The ship had received damage on its last campaign and we saw video footage of the interactions between whalers and the ship manned by the Sea Sheppard volunteers tossing rancid butter on decks and the whalers blasting water and using high-decibel sound deterrents.